After Bukit Kencur, it was difficult to think of Bukit Lawang as “wild”, but Green Hill makes a point of guiding visitors away from the crowds looking for orangutans. When we visited Bukit Lawang with Ando, he introduced us to other primates which also inhabit the forest, but are much harder to spot, being truly wild and shy around humans.
“Did you hear the tiny singing in-between?” Andrea whispered as we quietly followed the song of some lar gibbons. “That’s the babies. They’re teaching the babies to sing.”
improve alexa rank -----------We stopped and looked up. Some 20m above us was a lar gibbon enjoying the morning with her baby, singing every few seconds to her mate somewhere in the greenery. What a moment!
Sadly, I also saw for myself how our hunger for a selfie moment with wildlife has already altered the behaviour of the Bukit Lawang orangutans. They were easy to spot — soon after entering the forest, I saw an adult orangutan nestled with her baby.
Living close to the village, macaques have started to become accustomed to humans, as many now appear to focus their feeding activity foraging around the village. While a sight to behold for tourists, Green Hill believes that this ‘unwilding’ interaction will prove to be detrimental to the macaque population in the area. Photo by Adhytia Putra
-----------I marvelled at seeing one of Indonesia’s most critically endangered creatures in the flesh, but the spell was broken when I heard another guide calling to lure the orange-brown apes closer.
Such practices are what Green Hill is trying to discourage. Apart from altering their behaviour, contact with wildlife increases the risk of them catching diseases from humans, threatening the species’ survival.
-----------Bringing conservation to the community
Despite the looming presence of the forest, I was surprised to learn from Mimpin that only a minority of villagers cross its bounds. What happens when a local community becomes alienated from the natural environment around them?
Realising there is a need to “rewild” young minds for the future, Mbra and Andrea set up a Nature Club and library in the remote village of Tualang Gepang. An experienced educator, Andrea hopes to inspire kids to learn about the environment and wildlife with which they share the world.
The space is open to anyone in the village and surrounds. Everyone is welcome to visit, and they are hoping to encourage school visits in 2023. Everyone seems at ease there, even our guide Mimpin, whom I spot putting on reading glasses to inspect some books.
-----------Transformed
I started this journey as a city kid who, upon arrival, nearly tripped from the horror of having a leech attach itself to her ankle. It took time for me to settle in — to get used to its silence, its lack of bustle, and find the joy in it.
I’m still a city kid, though one who now knows how to remove a leech! I now appreciate how every tree, every living being in the jungle is part of the cycle of life: from the day it springs from the ground to the day it falls and decomposes, nurturing new life.
Unexpectedly, I found myself transformed by the jungle. If you walk your path right, it might do the same to you.
-----------Traveller's Notes
🏠 Bukit Lawang Guest House
Greenhill Bukit Lawang is built with ethically sourced natural materials (wood, river stones, bamboo). Our writer and photographer stayed in the Triple Treetop Bungalow, which is a short climb up a set of slightly uneven stairs. It has a broad balcony with a sitting area and hammock for guests to enjoy uninterrupted views of the national park and river.
The room is rustic and furnished with a double and single bed, each equipped with its own mosquito net for a good night’s sleep—untroubled by bugs! It has a private bathroom with a bamboo shoot shower. It’s basic, but clean and functional.
-----------💡 Travellers are encouraged to store valuables correctly, and keep doors and windows closed to avoid monkey visits! Guests with electronics should store them in the shelves provided. There are plastic crates provided for food.
♿ Travellers with mobility issues might find the stairs a challenge.
♿ Two of the Double Treetop Bungalows have western style toilets. The Triple Treetop Bungalow mentioned in this story has a squat toilet. The Treetop Chalet, which sleeps four, has a western style toilet.
-----------🏠 Kuta Langis Ecolodge
You can choose to stay in the Jungle Villa, which sleeps up to four, or the Jungalow which is great for two. Our writer and photographer stayed in the Jungle Villa, which is a cabin on stilts, constructed from local and sustainably-sourced hardwoods and river stones by local craftsmen, with all the modern conveniences. It’s spacious with an open terrace where you can enjoy your afternoon tea while soaking in views of the gorgeous, rewilded landscape.
The Jungle Villa has a double bed and a bunk bed with mosquito nets. It’s equipped with two private bathrooms: an en-suite bathroom with a showerhead, running tap, and a sitting toilet, and a second bathroom under the cabin.
-----------Kuta Langis Ecolodge is the perfect place to enjoy nature uninterrupted. Enjoy broad vistas of Gunung Leuser National Park from your private slice of paradise.
♿ People with mobility issues may find the stairs to the cabin, and terrain of the establishment challenging. As someone with some visual impairment, our writer found it challenging to walk around at night. Make sure you have a torchlight with you in the evenings, as the dining area is in a separate building, and you will need to move between buildings for meals.
-----------🥾 Trekking / Overnight camping
Green Hill provides guests with a detailed kit list for treks. A sleeping bag liner or blanket is required, and they recommend that guests bring their own lightweight camping mattress if that level of comfort is required. Green Hill are happy to provide further guidance.
Communicate your comfort levels to your guide, and make sure you get as much rest along the way as you need. Hydration is always important!
-----------🍛 Meals
Our writer says “the exceptional cook who resides with us during our stay, Bogan, served up the dishes of my dreams.”
Breakfast is a simple local fare to power your day: local fruits, rice, or toast with tea or coffee.
At Jungle Villa and during a one-night-trek, Bogan cooked up means sambal kecombrang (torch ginger sambal), local vegetables, tofu stews and curries, and fried eggs.
They're actually very simple dishes, but the sambal kecombrang makes everything super good. In Bukit Lawang, the staff also served home-cooked food, locally-sourced vegetables, fish and eggs
Indonesian food can be spicy, but Green Hill ensures that its guests’ tolerance for spice is catered for.
-----------Connect with Green Hill
Website: www.greenhillbukitlawang.com
Instagram: @greenhillbukitlawang
Facebook: @Green Hill Guesthouse - Bukit lawang - Sumatra
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